This section features general information about maintaining scooters. The specifics will vary by model.
A scooter must be serviced in accordance with the required maintenance period. Before servicing, give the vehicle a good cleaning. The symbols listed in the table below mean as follows:
* Should be serviced by the personnel in a qualified service station unless the owner has tools and service materials and is mechanically qualified. In order to ensure your safety, it is recommended that only qualified personnel service these items.
** Clean more frequently when driving in dusty areas.
Oils and Lubricants
Buy only high quality motor oil and change it regularly. Change the oil after the first 300km then every 1000km thereafter.
Make sure to choose a seasonable grade of oil. In colder weather, use 10W30 and in warmer weather use 20W40. Also, make sure its API Rating is SF or better. The API Rating is inside the little circle on the back of the container.
Since the amount of transmission oil varies by model, refer to our Operation Manual for information on specific scooter models.
Buy only the best quality oil.
The best choice for oil injected GS MotorWorks 2-stroke scooters is a synthetic or semi-synthetic blend of "injector" oil, which is vegetable based rather than petroleum based. These oils are virtually smoke free, very low in residual carbon content, have superior lubricating qualities, and actually smell rather pleasant. They are also a lot friendlier to the environment.
These 2-stroke injector oils can be found at most motorcycle and marine shops. They are more expensive than the Petroleum Premix oils, but remember that a gallon will probably last a year and definitely worth the expense in making the 2-stroke scooter more pleasant to ride. The quantity of oil used depends on how the scooter is driven. Just top-off the oil tank to within ½" of the neck of the tank – DO NOT OVERFILL!
A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight) for the first 500 miles. Do not use synthetic oils, as they are too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break-in, the rings will glaze over, voiding your warranty.
Do not use pre-mix oil. Premix oil tends to deteriorate the rubber components in an oil injector system, causing them to leak. There are a number of different brands of 2-stroke oil on the market. Some of them can be used either as "Premix" oil or "Injector" oil. Just make sure that the oil is suitable for use in oil-injected scooter motors. This information should be on the container.
A good brand that GS MotorWorks recommends is Amsoil (approximately $20 per gallon on the website, www.amsoil.com).
Brake and Throttle Cables
Once a year or so, disconnect the cables from their control levers or twist grip, and dribble a few drops of household oil, such as 3 in 1 or WD-40, into the cable. A "funnel" made of aluminum foil taped around the cable housing end will make this job a little less messy. Add a touch of grease to the little "barrel"-shaped end as you re-install it and the cables will last a very long time.
Wheel and Steering Neck Bearings
Normally these won’t need much attention as long as they are not loose or "sloppy," although they should be inspected occasionally. With the front wheel off the ground, push and pull on the handlebars to feel any "clicking." That indicates wear is present or adjustment is necessary in the steering neck bearings. Likewise, hold the front wheel and push-pull sideways to feel for the same "clicking." If adjustment or replacement is necessary, it would be wise to take the scooter to a professional with the necessary tools to do the job correctly.
The rear wheel does not have bearings in it, but it is a good idea to smear a dab of grease on the axle splines once a year or every time the rear wheel is removed from the scooter. Use care to keep the grease off of the brake shoes!
Recommended Tools for Your Scooter
GS MotorWorks scooters come with their own tool kit. It’s good to have on hand, but if an owner plans to do their own maintenance, more tools will be needed.
It’s important to buy good quality tools. A small fortune doesn’t have to be spent to get good tools, but the 80-piece socket set for $6.95 is definitely not the bargain it seems when bolts are stripped and parts are damaged. Most automotive stores have good quality ready-made kits that have almost everything needed.
Here is a list of tools owners will find useful (which is by no means comprehensive – it is not possible to have too many tools!). They are listed by category along with an approximate cost range for all the tools in that category.
SCREWDRIVERS: Approximate cost: $10 - $25
-One #2 Phillips driver
-One #3 Phillips driver
-One ¼" straight thin screwdriver, about 8" long
-One 3/8" straight screwdriver 6" long
-One ½" straight screwdriver 6" to 8" long
Note: for most purposes, a "6 in one" type screwdriver will be sufficient.
-One "impact river" with a variety of bits. Very useful for loosening those stubborn drive case screws.
WRENCHES: Approximate cost: $15 - $40
-A set of "combination wrenches" sized from 8mm to 19mm. These are the ones that have the open-end on one side with the box-end on the other.
-One 8" adjustable wrench
SOCKET SET: Approximate cost: $15 - $40
-One 3/8" drive ratchet wrench
-A collection of sockets to fit the above, sized from 8mm to 19mm
-A spark plug socket. The ones with a hex-drive can be used with a combination wrench as well as the ratchet wrench. A 13/16" socket can be used for 2-stroke spark plugs, and/or a 5/8" socket for 4- stroke spark plugs.
-A 24mm socket, 6 sided, for the rear axle nut on 2-stroke and 4-stroke scooters. For the FX 16, use a 19mm combination wrench.
-A 2" extension and a 6" extension for the 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. The "wobble" type is best.
Note: A 1/4" drive socket set similar to the 3/8" drive set above is useful, but not absolutely necessary. Likewise, a 1/2" drive ratchet set would be nice to have.
ALLEN WRENCH SET: Approximate cost: $5 - $12
-Usually sized from 3mm to 8mm, but the 5mm size is most used.
PLIERS: Approximate cost: $20 - $45
-6" needle nose
-6" diagonal cutters
-6" or 8" vise-grip type
-A chain wrench is useful for holding onto parts that spin while trying to loosen them, like clutches and magnetos.
-A pair of tweezers
HAMMERS: Approximate cost: $10 - $25
-A 16 ounce ball peen hammer
-A 1½ lb. dead blow hammer
MEASURING TOOLS: Approximate cost: $10 - $15
-A 500ml plastic measuring cup
-A spark plug gapping tool
-A tire gauge reading in both PSI and KPa
ELECTRICAL TOOLS: Approximate cost listed for each tool
-A VOM (Volts/Ohm Meter) with a 10 amp setting $15 - $50
-A soldering iron with solder and flux $10 - $15
-A pair of wire crimpers and terminal kit $8 - $12
-A continuity tester (the wireless ones work great!) $3 - $15
-A set of jumper leads (Radio Shack has them) $2 - $5
-A paperclip –It is amazingly useful!- FREE!
-A 1.5amp battery charger/maintainer $25 - $40
-A small funnel $1 - $2
-A set of files $10 - $15
-A 1/8" punch $3 - $5
-A ½" chisel $3 - $5
-A tire pump $10 - $20
-A wire brush $3 - $5
-Golf tees for plugging hoses - $1 - $3 for a whole bag of them
-A set of tire irons, available at most motorcycle shops, and MUCH better than changing tires with a screwdriver. $15 - $25 for the set of two
-A brand name sparkplug $2 - $4
-A 1" wide paint scraper $2 - $4
-A GOOD tool box to keep everything in $20 - $40
ADVANCED TOOLS (Optional):
-A compression tester, with a hose that screws into the spark plug hole $20 - $30
-An inductive tachometer $35 - $50
-An inductive timing light $25 - $35
-Mechanic’s stethoscope $10 - $15
-A Mitey Vac™ vacuum pump with gauge $30 - $65 (depending on the set)
-A set of dial or vernier calipers for fine measurements $15 - $50